A very long time ago, I took a little trip away from Madrid to Toledo. ( I have been neglecting my writing, there is much to document!)  The medieval town really hasn’t changed in centuries….the roads wind through the small central area each stone laid lovingly by hand and the bowed wood of the door frames divulge their antiquity.   After visiting the Catedral and seeing El Greco’s masterpiece Entierro del Conde de Orgaz, I proceeded to get hopelessly, and happily lost winding my way around Mosques, Synagogues and Churches; three cultures who lived at peace for nearly 700 years.

I bought a two things in Toledo, a present for my dear mother (can’t tell you what!) and Mazapán, the sweet almond candy that is ubiquitous (ubicou, my newest Spanish word) in Toledo.

The history of this tasty treat depends completely on who you ask, but Toledo’s story tells that Mazapán was invented by Toledo’s monks in the San Clemente Convent when extreme hunger persisted during the Battle of Navas De Tolosa (1212) during the Muslim conquest of  Spain.  Though the “dulce” is thought to be christian, its name is distinctly Arabic. Some scholars trace its etymology to the world “mahsaban” which refers to a pastry or dessert made with almonds and dried fruits while others think the word comes from “mantha-ban” meaning sitting king.

Mazapán itself has two basic ingredients, sugar and almonds (azucar y almedras)  to which other flavors are added, such as egg, honey or jam.  Just like Jamón, Toledo’s Mazapán production is controlled by the Ministerio de Agricultura, and the true form must consist of no less than 50% almonds by weight.  So interesting!

This is the one that I tasted, filled with a bit of “yema ducle” or sweetened egg yoke.  Walking through the streets, the windows were full of Mazapán art, sculptures of little children, apples, pears and oranges, even a detailed replica of the Catedral.  The flavor is very strong and the texture is quite dense. It’s a common treat at Christmas time, as a normal person couldn’t possibly eat this everyday, let alone more than one tiny piece at a time. Although, as a lover of all things almond (nut, flavor, heart healthy fat) this definately has my stamp of approval.

The first day in Spain, I went straight for this treat.  Wandering around El Puerto Del Sol, I stopped in a shop full of hanging meat, smoke and locals.  True to from, I went for the ultra-authentic bocadillo de jamón.

Jamón is a mainstay in the Spanish diet, not to mention a building block of the export economy.  This is nothing like the ham from the deli, or a Christmas ham with cloves.  No, this is sliced thin and its salty meaty flavor is best on its own or with a little bread.

From a previous voyage to San Sebastian, a city in the Basque country of northern Spain, I knew that jamón iberico was delicious, and ubiquitous but I didn’t fully understand its importance.  Now, after a little research, and a long conversation in Spanish that tested my grammatical skills, here’s what I’ve got.

There are three main types of jamón in Spain- Serrano, Iberico, and Jabugo also known as jamón de pata negra. Serrano is the cheapest and the most common.  It has distinct white skin and you’ll find many bars have the entire leg on the counter, slicing it off piece by piece.  Iberico is one step up in quality—a little purer, a little more flavorful.   The purity is based on how the pig, or cerdo was raised, what it ate and how much exercise it got.  Jamón de Pata Negrais the purest and the most expensive. These pigs only eat bellotas, or acorns and are “purebreds.”

I had the opportunity to try a little piece the other day.  Truly, I’ve never had anything like it.  The fat was enchantingly unfamiliar and delivered exceptional flavor, balanced in its salt and depth of meat-i-ness. I asked if I could take a picture of the owner and he asked me how I would pay.  With love, I told him.  He like that.

The different types of jamón are heavily quality controlled. The Ministerio de Agricultura Español, determines the origin of the each ham and analyze its integrity.  The Reglamento Europeo,  (CE) the same organization that protects the flavor and the purity of Parmigiano Reggiano cheese makes sure that Spanish jamón is legally protected from interlopers and copycats.

If you happen to see some Spanish meats at your butcher shop, look to see if the jamón is 5J, a brand that is considered the best in the country, according to my local research.

Writing this makes me hungry…even though I just ate una tortilla con patatas y huevos, muy tradicional!