Marrakesh is a sensual feast, the sounds of hundreds of voices speaking different languages, the grit of the dirt on my sweaty forehead, the smell of fresh cumin mixing with roasted meats and of course the transporting taste of mint tea, poured from a decorative silver pot high in the air.  There is no way to truly describe my four day stint in Marrakesh last week: it was the first time I have ever experienced culture shock, and it taught me a lot.

I do promise to move on to the culinary delights that I discovered, I just need to pontificate for one more moment.  The culture, at least to me, is very clearly in transition.  On one side of the street, a young women wears a full burka, and on the other, a teenager bears her belly a bit beneath a tight t-shirt. A motorcycle speeds by playing pop music, while a donkey heaves the weight of Moroccan ceramic behind him. Ok, ok, I’m off my soap box. I just can’t say enough about how interesting it was to visit somewhere totally different.  Coming home to Madrid felt almost like coming home to Minnesota in comparison.

SO! TO THE MEAT OF THE MATTER (literally). Let’s begin.  The Djemma El Fna (say Je-ma-fna) Square is the hub of activity in Marrakesh.  By day, it bustles with monkeys, snake charmers and men selling the most wonderful fresh squeezed orange juice, but by night it is a full blown grill-off.  The air fills with smoke and the scent of browning meats, and competing venders tempt you with their menus in four or five languages.  Doesn’t matter if you’re full, they want you to eat more.

My dinner started off with a bang of protein, small sausages and sweet-hot tomato chutney with warm flat bread.  Honestly, it wasn’t far off from a very tasty polish sausage…we aren’t as different as we think…

Then came the snails.  I can’t say I liked them. In fact, I really didn’t.  I’ll stick with the french-ifed version with pleanty of butter.

Moving on, kababs of chicken and veggies, lamb and beef all marinated in ras al hanout, I believe.  Ras el Hanout is a mixture of spices and everyone does it a little differently but normally, it includes cardamon, cinnamon, cumin, nutmeg, coriander, paprika and more. Its name means “Head of Shop” because the best spices are selected.  One of the things my family and I purchased (along with a drum made of fish skin, fake Ray Ban sunglasses, and a very old soup spoon) was a big bag of this spice mix.

I think dessert was my favorite part.  This tea in the photo is not mint, but rather ginger and ginseng. And that cake! It is like the most intense spice cake you’ve ever tasted but stronger, richer, and more honest. It doesn’t hold together but rather just melts into a hot mess in your mouth. I will cherish its taste my tongue forever.

Tired, full and dusty, I collapsed in my bed, ready to head to the High Atlas mountains the next morning….

The first day in Spain, I went straight for this treat.  Wandering around El Puerto Del Sol, I stopped in a shop full of hanging meat, smoke and locals.  True to from, I went for the ultra-authentic bocadillo de jamón.

Jamón is a mainstay in the Spanish diet, not to mention a building block of the export economy.  This is nothing like the ham from the deli, or a Christmas ham with cloves.  No, this is sliced thin and its salty meaty flavor is best on its own or with a little bread.

From a previous voyage to San Sebastian, a city in the Basque country of northern Spain, I knew that jamón iberico was delicious, and ubiquitous but I didn’t fully understand its importance.  Now, after a little research, and a long conversation in Spanish that tested my grammatical skills, here’s what I’ve got.

There are three main types of jamón in Spain- Serrano, Iberico, and Jabugo also known as jamón de pata negra. Serrano is the cheapest and the most common.  It has distinct white skin and you’ll find many bars have the entire leg on the counter, slicing it off piece by piece.  Iberico is one step up in quality—a little purer, a little more flavorful.   The purity is based on how the pig, or cerdo was raised, what it ate and how much exercise it got.  Jamón de Pata Negrais the purest and the most expensive. These pigs only eat bellotas, or acorns and are “purebreds.”

I had the opportunity to try a little piece the other day.  Truly, I’ve never had anything like it.  The fat was enchantingly unfamiliar and delivered exceptional flavor, balanced in its salt and depth of meat-i-ness. I asked if I could take a picture of the owner and he asked me how I would pay.  With love, I told him.  He like that.

The different types of jamón are heavily quality controlled. The Ministerio de Agricultura Español, determines the origin of the each ham and analyze its integrity.  The Reglamento Europeo,  (CE) the same organization that protects the flavor and the purity of Parmigiano Reggiano cheese makes sure that Spanish jamón is legally protected from interlopers and copycats.

If you happen to see some Spanish meats at your butcher shop, look to see if the jamón is 5J, a brand that is considered the best in the country, according to my local research.

Writing this makes me hungry…even though I just ate una tortilla con patatas y huevos, muy tradicional!

The much awaited part two….
I gained a new appreciation for architectural beauty at the Farmers Market last Saturday. I love the idea of food as art and this was like seeing a Gaudi building. At the far side of the market, a man with large hands, well seasoned with fresh earth, cut piece off an enormous ruffly mushroom. Called Hen of the Woods, or Maitake in Japanese, this is a great fungi. Maitake means “dancing mushroom” and that’s just what it looks like, a lady’s skirt flying across the floor. Or, I suppose, maybe it means you’ll dance when you find it!

I can’t wait to use this mushroom. Though the fall season isn’t nearly long enough fully expound on this guy, it fresh-freezes very well. It’s also great for you. Sloan Kettering Cancer Hospital has conducted some serious research with this fungi, and found some serious results. Anti-cancer and anti-diabetic elements are only the beginning. It’s also great for immune system support, hypertension relief and high cholesterol reduction. But the Chinese said it best, the Maitake balances the systems of your bodies. I like that. How can you not??

References: Sloan Kettering, americanmushrooms.com, and admittedly a little wikipedia.

YES! The Farmers market is wonderful in the fall. It’s the time of the apple, the pumpkin and the squash. This Saturday, I made two discoveries I want to share. This is the first.

My new favorite apple is called the Mutsu. To unseat the HoneyCrisp as my number one is not an easy task. I’m a Minnesotan, and I harbor fierce loyalty for the Honey, and I don’t renege on my commitments. But, that said, I’m having an apple affair.

The Mutsu looks like a granny smith, but the skin is not that horrible industrial green, its hue is soft and spring like, like new moss in April. The taste is tart like a Granny, but instead of biting into your tongue, it is smooth and cooling and refreshing. A little lemon, a little chamomile.

The Mutsu hails from Japan, but was renamed Crispin in the 1960, to make it more appealing to Americans. It is also related to the Golden Delicious, but its firm, and super crispy flesh makes it great for cooking, although I think I might eat all the slices!

Stay posted for discovery number two….it might make you a healthier person, no, I’m quite sure it will. Oh, and if you go to the market, don’t be afraid to buy a lot. I went through 8 in 5 days.