Donatella is in running about, brow sweating. She is everywhere, in the kitchen, in the front, pouring water, fetching glasses and cursing in Italian at Paolo, the round faced twenty-something in the kitchen. Its a loving scolding of course and always in pursuit of true Italy in heart of the American Midwest.

This spring Evanston has been treated to something great, a long awaited Italian BYOB amidst a slew of mediocre Asian places. Donatella’s on Sherman is the reinvention of her long adored establishment on Howard Street, closed in 2008. I first visited on opening night, then again with my family and friends over Northwestern graduation weekend. By the end, Donatella was teasing me as if I had known her since childhood. Its that Italian way.

On that first visit, Sandeep and I walked in around 8:30 with three bottles of wine, two for us and one for the staff. I mean, how were we to know which we would like more with the food, the red or white? I fell in love with the place right away.  Sponge painted walls, tiled tables and hanging philodendron plants wrapped in a perpetual Tuscan afternoon.  The espresso maker humming away behind the case of buffalo mozzarella, imported artichokes and paper thin prosciutto proudly displays to hungry patrons.

We really wanted to order the whole menu, but settled on the seafood mixed grill, mushroom pasta featuring homemade linguini and five different mushrooms, beef carpaccio with arugula and finally white wine steamed mussels. Yep, we were indulgent.  Tender and well seasoned with fragrant olive oil, oregano and lemon, the octopus in the mixed grill was the stand out for me.  At the end of the meal, the flushed and tired staff shared their champagne with us, and we toasted to their future.  Not a bad introduction to the new Italian eatery.

Following its grand opening however, Donatella’s was bashed by Yelp and Urbanspoon for disorganized and slow service, no bread and butter upon sitting down and subpar food. Didn’t deter me and I dined there twice last week, once with my immediate family, and the following night with a group of 12. I was not disappointed, on the contrary, I wish I could go back and have those artichokes again….

In fact those ‘chokes are special. Unhappy with the quality of the cured veg she could find in Chicago, Donatella phoned home to an Italian producer.  She now imports artichokes and other Italian treats for special plates like this one, featuring burrata cheese (think mozzarella with a creamy center), prosciutto and speck.

The night of the 12 people, we basically ate the whole menu– and the vast majority was delicious. My salmon crudo, and dad’s lamb were stellar.  Of course you can’t bat 1000, and there are flaws. In general, there is a smidge too much oil, the mushroom pasta lacks the lightness that spring weather demands and, to be honest, I do always ask for bread.  The meal might not explode your brain with haut cuisine chemistry, but Donatella’s adorableness and dedication to your enjoyment will surly make you and your tummy smile. Also, each time I visited the service has improved, which bodes well for the coming days.  Its sad that Donatella arrived just as I was leaving. When I visit Evanston, I will have to stop in for a seafood mixed grill and panna cotta which can only be described as manna from heaven.

The Facts
Donatella’s
1512 Sherman Ave
Evanston, IL 60201
328-7720

Open for Lunch and Dinner

Muah, molto buono!: Seafood mixed grill, mussels, antipasti appetizer (or whatever includes cheese, meat and if you’re lucky an artichoke), panna cotta

Meh: Lobster pasta special with brandy and cream…gross, brandy. Mushroom Pasta.

Extra Reasons I like it: Outdoor dining; Donatella; BYOB (if you forget, Sandeep with deliver wine from Vinic straight to your table. Seriously, he runs it over on foot).