A few weeks ago two of my friends,  Marshal and Justin came to visit me from Minneapolis.  In need of some really good food, we were ready to hit the town. The weekend, shall we say, set us all back a bit financially. But dipping into the “rainy-day fund” was 100% worth it.  (And truth be told, it was raining).  Wandering downtown, Justin had his heart dead set on dinner at Rick Bayless’s Chicago establishment, Frontera Grill.  Frontera Grill opened in 1987 to wild success and was followed two years later by Topolobambo, one of the nations first upscale Mexican restaurants.  The pair have earned Bayless accolades all over the map including a James Beard Best Chef title and Outstanding Restaurant award. Clearly, I like the guy….he’s a great chef, a humanitarian, and a good dad–he co-authored a cookbook with his daughter Lanie.  Ok, but on to my extensive drinking and eating.

To make reservations at Frontera, you have to call weeks in advance.  But to eat there on a Saturday night, you just have to be patient. At 6:00 pm Justin, Marshal and I put our name on the waiting list.  “Ok, you’re going to want to check back in about three hours,” said the friendly hostess.  To be expected; time enough to recover from the bottle of red wine at lunch, have a nap and a shower and get ready to hit the town.  At 8:00ish we arrived back at the restaurant, grabbed a beeper and posted up in the bar.  Let the margaritas begin.

Previously, I would have told you that I hate margaritas.  Truth be told, I do hate bad ones. But these were powerful potions of crisp agave, teasing my lips with just enough salt to cut into the limey sweetness of cointreau and blanco tequila.  The boys favored the Mescal Margarita, with intense an spicy, the Oaxaca based liquor flowed all night.  Before he had had three sips on his first, Justin flagged the waiter for another, and a round of house made (obviously) guacamole. Let the debauchery begin. After three rounds  we had successfully tried the entire margarita menu– including El Vampiro, The Gold and the Champagne–and settled comfortably on our favorites as we sat down to dinner.

Oysters and a trio of ceviches started the meal, and to be perfectly honest, they were the highlight.  Trio! Trio! Trio!, is the best ceviche sampler I have ever had.  Changing seasonally they range from very traditional with fish marinated in serrano chili, lime and cilantro to a rich pumpkin broth with Pepita seed garnish. Each one hit home, singing unique, yet complimentary tunes.

Next came enchiladas with mole (my choice and I was very pleased) and two entrees that were fine, but forgettable, one stake and one pork. Understand what when I say fine, I simply mean not as freakin’ unbelievable as the ceviche.  The meat was still tender, the sauce creamy and intense and the tamale expertly wrapped in banana leaves.

Stepping into Frontera out of the slushy, gray Chicago day was like being teleported to Mexico.  Everyone speaks Spanish (and the more tipsy I got the more I spoke it too), the colors are vibrant and the scents of cumin and lime hang in the air. At the end of the night, we had a special treat.  Mr. Bayless himself showed up at the bar.  Are we stalkers for taking a clandestine photo? Nope, its just that for me, he is a celebrity.

The night was a complete success….far too much food, far far too many margaritas, but I wouldn’t un-drink a single sip. Did we end the night playing ding dong ditch between our hotel rooms? Yes. Are we all in our 20s? Yes.

Advice to the Undergrad:  This is the way to do Frontera, and I do hope you take me up on it.  Save up a little cash and get yourself to the bar.  Order a margarita.  Then the guacamole, then another margarita. Then a few appetizers and ask for the check.  You won’t break the bank, your stomach will thank you, and you’ll impress the pants of your date, your dad or your boss. Expect a bill of $55 for 2-3 appetizers and 2-3 drinks.

Salud, Amigos.