In early January, the temperature has inexplicably climbed into the fifties in Evanston IL. I’m dreaming of flip flops and tulip blossoms while trying to keep in mind that winter has just begun. But this doesnt’ mean I won’t take this opportunity to indulge in a little warm-weather noshing…..SUSHI!
In July, 2007 Evanston was treated to a sushi heavy hitter. Blu, lead by Chef Sang Lee, formerly of Moda, presents a menu capitalizing on fresh fish. There are 30 options for sushi/sashimi and several dozen signature roll options, covering all the classics and branching into territory unknown for this sushi lover. Tobiko, I learned is flying fish roe, one of Chef Lee’s specialties. Lee’s menu also includes fare from the fields, like Black Angus Beef and soy braised duck, but the focus is clearly on the fish.

Our meal began with the Hamachi Tataki: six pieces of seared yellow tail slightly encrusted with pepper corns and topped with a fine mince of tomato and cilantro. The fish sat on a ribbon of cucumber wrapped into a tight spiral around a chiffonade of greens in a plum reduction and topped with mint. It was delectable. the tuna was perfectly cooked, accentuating its velvety texture and allowing its flavor to shine unobstructed. The concert of tastes played beautifully off each other, the plum adding depth and dimension, while the mint dotted each bite with bright staccato notes The refreshing cucumber was fun to eat left me ready for more.

Despite the excellence of our first course, the miserable service throughout the meal was beginning to take its toll. Water glasses went unfilled, food waited on the bar for delivery, and our waiter new nothing about the wine list. When my mother inquired about a Pinot Gris, she was informed that it was a “white wine.” Well, yes, this, we clearly knew.But then our next round of deliciousness arrived. We sampled mackerel, tuna, and red snapper, all of which were outstanding. The personalities of each fish were allowed to shine with a three to one fish:rice ratio. Perfect.
However, my enjoyment was interrupted because we lacked a single nagiri bite and waited over fifteen minutes for it to arrive. By the end of the meal, I was tired and my mother was irritated. Walking out of the restaurant, beneath the Chuhuly-esq light fixtures, it was clear that the new establishment needs to iron out the kinks. However, the food itself was so good, it easily trumped the abominable service. I will return open minded and empty stomached.

Click Here For A MAP

Food of the Week: Fennel

I adore fennel. It is fresh and bright, but after cooking takes on a comforting earthy quality that is perfect for the sub-zero temperature in Minnesota in early January.

“I hate fennel,” said my father. “It tastes like licorice!” And he’s right— licorice, anise and fennel all share a compound called anethole, which happens to be extremely good for you. Anethole reduces inflammation, and protects against cancer. Quite a tricky little compound! By shutting down a process called tumor necorosis, cancer contaminated cells cannot communicate among themselves, thus inhibiting their devious activity.

Anethol has yet another wonderful property, one especially near and dear to the hearts of college students, and New Year’s Eve partiers everywhere. The compound has been shown to protect the liver from toxic chemical damage. This means alcohol, so eat up you party animals!

Fennel is a great source of folate, potassium and fiber. We all know fiber keeps us “regular” and our arteries clean, but folate and potassium? Folate jump starts red blood cell production and supports the nervous system. Potassium can lower blood pressure, as well as maintain good muscle and nerve health

The coolest part about fennel is its history. The first name of the bulbous veggie was “marathon” because it was discovered in the ancient battle field. The ancient Greeks tell the tales that Prometheus stole

knowledge in the form of a fiery coal from the gods by concealing it in a fennel stalk. He was subsequently punished by having his liver eaten by an eagle. Maybe if he had eaten the fennel instead, the anthole might have helped him!!

After I began to experiemnt with the white layers of the fennel bulb, my father realized that it is quite a treat. Personally, I’ll eat fennel with anything, but it is particularly wonderful in a soup, such as Fennel-Potato with Smoked Salmon. The fennel mellows as it is cooked, the molecular structure breaks down releasing its natural sugars which marries harmoniously with the salty salmon garnish. Might i suggest a piece of rye toast and a bit of cheddar cheese on the side?

Try this aromatic recipe to fill your kitchen with flavor: Braised Pork with Fennel and Orange.

If you don’t like licorice, it doesn’t mean you won’t like fennel. Sautee it in butter, add it to a salad with avocado, garnish it up with some mint!

Give this bad boy a try. He packs a punch.

For more information on Fennel, click here.

Fennel link on YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oRILf3W6E4E